The most terrible tragedy in the history of Soviet mountaineering. Photo


Самая жуткая трагедия в истории советского альпинизма. ФотоThe death of a tourist group, Igor Dyatlov.

The details of one of the worst tragedies in the history of Soviet mountaineering could remain a secret if not for the radio, thanks to which the events became known literally by the minute.

The Soviet Amazon.

Самая жуткая трагедия в истории советского альпинизма. Фото

The tragic story of the death of a tourist group, Igor Dyatlov more than half a century, dominates the minds of fans of the mysterious and enigmatic. Meanwhile, the incident at the pass, which later received the name of the head of the deceased group is not a unique event.

Expeditions in remote and dangerous places always carries a risk, often fatal. And it not only repels, but also attracts thrill-seekers.

15 years after the death of Igor Dyatlov in the Pamir mountains have played no less a terrible tragedy. It details, too, could remain a secret if not for the radio, thanks to which the events became known literally by the minute.

Самая жуткая трагедия в истории советского альпинизма. Фото

In the Soviet Union, gender equality was officially recognized even earlier than in many Western countries. Back in the 1930-ies the image of women-the women soldiers of labor, female scientist, female pilot, woman leader has been widely publicized in the Soviet culture.

It is not surprising that the weaker sex in the Soviet Union confidently mastered various spheres of activity. Touched by this process and mountaineering.

Women among the Soviet grave was not as much as men, but they steadily gained credibility.

Family business.

Самая жуткая трагедия в истории советского альпинизма. Фото

By the early 1970s years one of the most famous mountaineers of the Soviet Union was Elvira Shataeva. A graduate of the Moscow art school, a Komsomol member, an athlete, a beauty, Elvira worked as an instructor of the sports Committee of the Kiev district of the city of Moscow in DSO “Spartak”. Her passion for mountains began with my fascination with the human instructor of mountaineering Vladimir Shataeva. Elvira fell in love with him, and with him in the mountains.

They married, and climbing has become their common cause. Elvira has progressed rapidly — stormed the peaks of the Caucasus and the Pamirs and in 1970 was awarded the title of USSR master of sports in mountaineering.

Самая жуткая трагедия в истории советского альпинизма. Фото

In 1971, the men’s team under the leadership of Vladimir Shataeva Elvira climbed the highest point of the USSR — Communism peak (7495 m), becoming the third woman in the top.

In the Soviet Union to rise above was just nowhere, and in the Himalayas Soviet mountaineers first went only in the 1980s. But Safeway a new idea — to conquer the peaks forces exclusively female team.

The women’s team.

Самая жуткая трагедия в истории советского альпинизма. Фото

With all the equality of the sexes in extreme activities men always afraid to leave women alone. Perhaps this is due to the inherent nature of the male function to preserve and protect their girlfriends. But Elvira Safeway just wanted to get out from under that guardianship and prove that the women’s team in no way to be inferior to men.

The first goal was the peak of Evgeniya Korjenevskaya — the peak of its discoverer, Russian geographer Nikolai Korzhenevskaya, was named in honor of his wife. Peak Korzhenevskaya was one of the five peaks, located on the territory of the USSR.

In this expedition, held in 1972, together with Elvira Safeway participated Galina Rogalska, Ilsur Mukhamedova and Antonina Sleep. The ascent was successful and was highly appreciated by the participants of the expedition were awarded medals “For outstanding achievements in sport”.

After a year Elvira Shataeva organizes women’s new expedition, this time to the North Caucasus. The goal is to mount Ushba, which translated from Svan means “mountain that brings bad luck.” But the team leader is not afraid of superstitions along with Ilsur Muhamedova and three athletes Shataeva successfully carries out a traverse of Ushba. Traverse is called the passage of two nodes and the descent is not the path of recovery. The women’s team conquered the North and South peaks of the two-headed Ushba.

Peak name of the leader.

Самая жуткая трагедия в истории советского альпинизма. Фото

In 1974, Elvira Shataeva selects as new target peak. It is planned that the women’s team will climb via the rock of Lipkin, will rise to the top, and then down through the top Separate. In fact, there has been another traverse.
About any recklessness on the part of the leader of the group of the question. Safeway offered a more difficult route, but she rejected them with the words: “keep it coming”.

Lenin peak, despite the height of 7134 meters, was considered perhaps the safest among the Soviet seventhousanders. For the first 45 years of climbing to the top there was killed more than one climber.

The team of Elvira Safeway entered is already familiar and experienced Ilsur Mukhamedova and Nina Vasilyeva, Valentina Fateeva, Irina Lyubimtsev, Perehody Galina, Tatiana and Lyudmila Burdacheva Mangareva.

Самая жуткая трагедия в истории советского альпинизма. Фото

The team gathered in full strength in Osh on 10 July 1974. Began joint training, and also conducted two acclimatization output. Those who have seen the work of the team of Safeway not have any comments and complaints: the girls worked hard, not conflict, is well interacted with each other.

In that season Pamir as if something was angry at the climbers. July 25 in a snow avalanche killed one of the strongest climbers of America Harry Ulin. It was the first sportsman, who died on Lenin peak. In early August, killed the Swiss Eva Sensed. Weather conditions was extremely poor. Nevertheless, the team from Safeway plans of climbing is not refused.

“Everything is so good that even disappointed.”

Самая жуткая трагедия в истории советского альпинизма. Фото

2 Aug Elvira Shataeva transferred by radio to base camp: “got about an hour Left before reaching the crest. All is well, weather is good, the breeze slightly. The path is simple. All the members feel good. Yet everything is so good that even disappointed.”

At this time, at the peak of Communism worked for several men’s teams. Subsequently there was a version that led the base camp of the legendary Soviet climber Vitaly Abalakov specifically asked for the men’s team a longer stay closer to the top to insure the command to Safeway. But the girls, in turn, believed that such custody negates the significance of their ascent, so hesitated with the summit taking a rest day.

On August 4, around 17:00 Elvira Shataeva said during a radio: “the Weather is unpredictable. It’s snowing. It is a well — sweep traces. To avoid conversations that we climb the tracks.”

At this point one of the men’s teams was directly beside the place where stood the girl. By querying the database for further action, the men got the answer: Safeway all is well, you can continue descent.
That occurred further, it is known exclusively from the data of the radio.

Captive tops.

Самая жуткая трагедия в истории советского альпинизма. Фото

5 Aug at 17:00 Elvira Shataeva said: “We came out on top”. The base responded with greetings and wished a successful descent. But with the descent of women has serious problems.

From radio spots Elvira Safeway: “Visibility is 20-30 meters. Doubt in the direction of descent. We decided to put the tent that already did. The tents are set in tandem and arranged. Hope to see the path of descent when better weather”. A little later she added: “I Think we will not freeze. Hopefully, the sleepover will be not very serious. Feel good”.

On the basis of this news was perceived with alarm. Overnight on the top with biting wind and low temperatures did not Bode well. But the descent in the absence of visibility was also extremely dangerous. However, the base did not consider the situation critical — Shataeva was an experienced climber and, it seemed, had it all under control.

On the morning of 6 August, it became even more worrying. Shataeva reported that the visibility had not improved, the weather is only getting worse, and for the first time addressed a direct question to the Abalakova: “What advise base, Vitaly Mikhailovich?”.

Base led emergency consultations with other teams. However, the clear answer to work out was impossible. The weather had deteriorated so much that towards the top at this point was not raised before any of the teams. Visibility was not the traces of the previous groups covered. To advise the girls to go down in such conditions was possible only under extreme circumstances. But to stay on on top of it was extremely unsafe.


Самая жуткая трагедия в истории советского альпинизма. Фото

Negotiations and consultations continued until 17:00. During the next radio Shataeva said: “We would like to leave the top down. We have lost hope to the light… And we just want to start… in all likelihood, the descent… Because on top of very cold. A very strong wind. There’s too much wind”.

And then the girl requested radio medical advice. It turned out that one of the athletes for about a day, vomits after eating. Medic Anatoly Lobusev, which outlined the symptoms were categorical: the group needs to begin an immediate descent.

“I declare you a reprimand for having not informed earlier about the patient participant. Urgently to follow instructions of the doctor to do an injection and immediately descend via the ascent route, route Lipkin,” on the radio Safeway Vitaly Abalakov.
Experienced Vitaly Mikhaylovich Abalakov in this moment broke. But he probably heard that on a women’s team in mortal danger.

The girls began the descent. But about two o’clock in the morning of 7 August at the peak of Lenin the hurricane hit. A terrible wind, the dangerous and the plain, here turned into a monster, destroying everything in its path.

Morning post 7 Aug from the women’s team was terrible as the storm tore up tents, claimed the items, including stoves. Night killed Irina Lyubimtsev.

“Fifteen to twenty minutes we will not be alive…”

Самая жуткая трагедия в истории советского альпинизма. Фото

In less than fifteen minutes after this message, as from the base camp came a detachment of Soviet climbers for Safeway. Without any order, voluntarily also as the French, the British, Austrians and Japanese who have been to the top of the closest. Men did not spare themselves, despite the fact that visibility was almost zero, and the wind knocked down. But they said nothing could be done. The Japanese advanced further than others, were forced to retreat after the team members suffered frostbite.

At 14:00 Elvira Shataeva said: “we lost two Vasilyev and Fateeva… took things… For five three sleeping bag… We very cold, we are very cold. Four severely frostbitten hands…”

Base said, “to Move downward. Do not be disheartened. If you can’t go, you move, you are all the time in motion. Please get in touch every hour, if possible”.

These tips were the only thing at that moment, the camp was able to help the girls.

Radio from the women’s team at 15:15: “it is very cold… to Dig a cave can’t Dig nothing. Can’t move… Backpacks carried away by the wind…”

Around 19:00 base camp made contact with one of the Soviet teams that were closer to the top: “Above the tragedy ends. In all likelihood, last for long. Tomorrow morning when in 8 hours let that you to do. Apparently, going up.”

To some this post may seem cynical about the still-living women mentioned already dead. But climbers used to look at things soberly: the chances of a group of Elvira Safeway.

The last message from the group came on 7 August in 21:12. The programme had not Elvira Shataeva, and Galina Perehody. Barely spoken words were interrupted by tears. Finally Galina with great difficulty, said: “We were only two… no more Strength… After fifteen or twenty minutes we will not be alive…”

After that, on the basis that he was twice heard in the air the touch of a button someone was trying to broadcast, but to say nothing could. Everything was of course…

Final resting place at the “Edelweiss Glade”.

Самая жуткая трагедия в истории советского альпинизма. Фото

When the Gale ceased, to the scene of the tragedy first reached the Japanese and American climbers. They made a map of the location of the bodies, pointed out their location. It was found that the number of bodies does not coincide with the size of the group — one of the girls disappeared.

Had a wild hope — and suddenly at least one managed to survive? Go upstairs and to clarify the situation was the group’s most experienced climbers.

A search party headed immediately to the Pamirs Vladimir Shataev, the husband of Elvira. He left the area just days before the tragedy, and returned after the death of the Swiss climber. About what happened with the women’s team, he announced on the spot.

When they decide who goes up, many have opposed the candidacy Shataeva. In his qualifications no one doubted, but there were doubts that the man who survived a terrible personal grief, is able to restrain emotions. The controversy was stopped by Vitali Abalakov: “Go Shataev”.

Vladimir Shataev and in this situation, showed himself as a professional topper. Despite the difficult conditions and severe psychological stress, his group found all the eight dead girls. Eighth, Nina Vasilyev, found in torn tent under the body of Valentina Fateeva — the Japanese simply do not notice it.

The climbers dug in the snow two graves. One of them was buried Nina Vasilyev, Valentina Fateeva, Irina Lyubimtsevu. The second Perehody Galina, Tatiana Bardysheva, Lyudmila Mangareva, Elvira Shataeva, Ilsur Muhamedova.

Самая жуткая трагедия в истории советского альпинизма. Фото

As a rule, climbers who died high in the mountains, you will always be there. Operation for descent of the bodies is extremely difficult, costly and dangerous. But in this case, men felt that have no right to leave the girls that died there among the snow and ice.

In a year Vladimir Shataev has submitted to the Committee a request for the expedition, the descent of the bodies of the members of the team of Elvira Safeway. An experienced climber feared that it does not understand will consider what he is trying to cope with personal grief.

But the Committee understood everything correctly and gave the go-ahead. Moreover, with all the Soviet Union Satawu were letters and telegrams from volunteers willing to participate in the operation.

Operation for descent of bodies took 14 days and was made perfectly. Elvira Shataeva, Nina Vasilyev, Valentina Fateeva, Irina Lyubimtsevu, Galina Perehody, Tatiana Bardashev, Lyudmila Mangareva and Ilsiyar Muhamedova buried at the foot of Lenin peak, in the tract of Achik-Tash at the “Edelweiss Glade”.


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