Balsa floats with their hands


At least, the income was enough to offset the costs of tackle, bait, training and experiments with the first production of foam plastic boxes for fishing and some other fishing gear.

The relevance of artisanal production from a commercial point of view over time, of course disappeared, but the need for the manufacture of floats for their own needs is preserved.

This is natural, so how to get the float which I am personally satisfied in all respects, can be extremely rare. I’m making a tackle on the pond under the specific conditions of fishing, and the shop products always contain in its design elements, adaptable versatility.

Floats of mass production are not of the highest quality raw thick and bulky antennas, a completely non-functional balls on the antennas, a colorful palette of colored stripes.

The lack of second attachment points on a line, thick but short keels on the floats with excess capacity make them unsuitable for accurate catching both large and small fish.

It makes no sense to go into further detail and explain what the product is “handmade” is better “consumer goods”.

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It’s so much easier and faster to do a few of these floats, which do I need for the upcoming fishing. And there is nothing complicated.

Need wood balsa wood.

It can be purchased at the store of aircraft modeling. Balsa can be in the form of boards of different thickness, in the form of bars and cylinders. The difference in price of the float will be noticeable if you plan to make the party. In any case, the costs the tree one float does not exceed five rubles.

In this shop you can buy steel wire of diameter 0.6 mm, or rods of glass or carbon fiber for the keels of the floats. For antennas, you can get plastic rods of any color, but of different diameter. Still they will have to repaint. In the extreme case, fit end sleeves from electrical wires inserted inside a thin stylistas wire.

For large floats are suitable as antennas toothpick.

Still need the soft wire, nichrome better, with a diameter of about 0.3 mm, for rings under the line.

Phased production process as follows:

1. From square in cross-section of the workpiece is necessary to remove and clear excess material from edges with a knife for paper.

2. With one end of the workpiece it is necessary to remove material with the same knife, so that the workpiece with strong interference was included in a silicone or rubber tube. The tube itself is fixed, for example, on the pencil, which, in turn, clamped in the Chuck of a makeshift centerless machine.

3. Sandpaper the workpiece when the rotational speed in this case 2800 rpm (electric motor power 90 W).


Photo: Andrew Yanshevsky.

4. Not cutting the workpiece, drilling a hole under the keel or the antenna that depends on the shape of the body of the float.


Photo: Andrew Yanshevsky.

5. After the final sanding, cut off the workpiece.

6. Drill the hole for the antenna (or the keel) and affixed them using any glue. If the fit of the keel and the antenna billet is dense enough, the glue are not needed. The lacquer coating will do the trick.


Photo: Andrew Yanshevsky.

7. It is important to securely attach the ring to the fishing line. A plane is a ring, doesn’t matter.

8. The most crucial is the sealing of the float and the protective coating.

To float served decades and its coating does not crack after a few fishing trips, you need to soak the top layer of balsa low-viscosity varnish. It is best for this purpose is a varnish “purpose”. This lacquer, which previously could be quickly prepared by dissolving in acetone a piece of celluloid toys. Now I buy nail Polish at the same store for modelers.

It is important that the varnish, even when the rapid pulling out of a workpiece does not give streaks after drying.

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After the billet enters the nail, begin to stand out air bubbles. They do not need to pay attention. Once is enough to quickly drown the workpiece at the Polish, slowly remove it and stick a keel in a piece of foam.


Photo: Andrew Yanshevsky.

9. In about an hour you can have a very thin sandpaper and sanded down risen “NAP” and proceed to the protective coating.


Photo: Andrew Yanshevsky.

10. Before varnishing, if desired, float color, by dipping in diluted acrylic paint. I paint only functional upper body. Paint does nothing except increase the self-weight of the float.


Photo: Andrew Yanshevsky.

For painting of the float I clamped the keel in the Chuck of the machine and paint brush. The cartridge machine is better to rotate manually.

11. As coating of the finished float, I use a yacht varnish alkyd-polyurethane. Two coats of slightly diluted varnish with intermediate drying at least a day.

12. After drying, varnish have to cut the keel at the desired size and be sure to smooth its free end. Otherwise, in the design of the tooling can damage a thin line.


Photo: Andrew Yanshevsky.

13. Ready the floats I Agrajag and apply on the body marking the true capacity.

14. Carefully, using a dental drill make a hole in the nail, which is inside a ring for the line.

15. The keel wear a silicone sleeve for a few days and leave the finished product stuck in the foam, to evaporated of solvent residues.


Photo: Andrew Yanshevsky.

This coating technology provides not only durability, but also a significant gain in capacity due to the fact that there is a thick layer of ballast and paint.

The smaller the float size, the this gain becomes more important. I emphasize – not great, but important!


Photo: Andrew Yanshevsky.

This gain is most evident when fishing bleak, perch and roach with floats carrying capacity of about 0.2 g.


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